March Garden Tips & Chores

It's hard to believe it's almost the end of March. I spotted the first of my daffodils opening this weekend, and all the trees and shrubs have buds on them, including both lilacs. I've always loved this time of year. Today I'm sharing Spring gardening tips.

Reminder: Don't prune any shrubs or trees that have spring blooms. Prune after the blooms have died off.

-The first spring chore should be walking around your landscape and cutting off any damaged or diseased wood from shrubs and trees. Mine made it through fairly well with just a small amount of damage to my Rose of Sharon. Use sharp garden shears that have been cleaned.

-The next chore is gently raking leaves and debris from all the garden beds that collected over the winter, and cutting back any dead foliage, or pulling up any annuals that were forgotten in the fall. If their isn't any disease present this can all be composted.

-Wait to till or dig in the garden until the soil is dry enough to crumble. If it's too wet from spring rains and moisture it will clump and be hard to work with later.

-If you didn't cut back the old wood on your butterfly bushes (for the type that grow from the ground each year, not on the old wood) then be sure to cut the old stems back to the ground now.

-Once the soil reaches a temperature of about 45 degrees and it's dry enough to work with you can plant peas, spinach, beets, carrots, radishes, lettuce, greens and calendula outside by sowing the seeds into the soil or containers.

-Cut back all ornamental grasses before they start to sprout from the ground so the new growth isn't accidentally snipped.

On OFL I have an article on growing peas:

http://oldfashionedliving.com/The-Spring-Garden:-Growing-Peas.html

~Brenda

Garden Tip Hodge Podge

The sun is shining, and spring is trying to arrive, even in Michigan. Yesterday I noticed the first daffodil stems poking up in my garden, which always makes me smile. Today I'm grabbing two of my older gardening books and sharing tips I thought everyone would enjoy.

The Old Dirt Dobber's Garden Book, 1944

EVERGREENS: In spite of good care, an occasional arborvitae, juniper, pine or cedar will become so ragged and ill-shaped that it destroys the beauty of the planting. These trees are not generally pruned severely, but in cases like this a drastic treatment is the only recourse. If you decide to prune, don't stop half-way; cut the top one-third out and prune the side growth at least half-way back.

CUT POPPIES: Cut freshly opened poppies very early in the morning and sear the ends immediately with flame or boiling water. Treat an inch or two of the base of the stems and char them thoroughly. Then put them in fresh water and they will last for several days without wilting. Do not cut the stems after the first searing. The large Oriental poppies may be cut the same way.

Adventures in My Garden and Rock Garden

Louise Beebe Wilder, 1923

I find the notion that Primroses will not thrive in this country rather widespread, particularly among professional gardeners. Undoubtedly it is true that our hot, dry summers are trying for them, especially where no special provision is made for their comfort in sun-baked gardens. But where there is some shade, the soil may easily be made to suit them, and moisture supplied where necessary; and in many gardens are felicitous situations where these flowers would grow as luxuriantly as we would have them, even seeding themselves, which is the true sign of a plant's having made itself at home.

Mrs. Wilder goes on to say that she has over a thousand primrose plants, many grown from seed, in her garden. She includes the following in the family of Primula: English Primrose, cowslips, oxlips, auriculas, and forms from alpine and blog conditions. She mentions a new "blue" primrose which she doesn't care for and she wishes for a green variety that was available many years before. Below are conditions she gave her plants to thrive:

-a little leaf soil or rotted manure scratched in among their growths now and again.

-watered in dry weather with weak manure water

-their leaves kept clean and free from grit

-they require a deep, rich soil, stiff in quality and fairly moist

-shelter from cutting winds and shade for part of the day

Primroses "are for sheltered, shadowy corners, lightly wooded places, where they may have as companions Hepaticas, Violets, Bloodroot, Dutchman's-breetches, small ferns and emerald mosses."

I love Mrs. Wilder's writing and will share more from her books later in the spring.

On OFL I have an article on Forget-Me-Nots, another charming spring flower:

http://oldfashionedliving.com/forget-me-nots.html

~Brenda

The Kitchen Garden: Tip Hodge Podge

Today I'm sharing tips on growing and caring for a kitchen garden. These are things that have helped me over the years. The pictures are from my garden in previous seasons.

Choosing Tomato Varieties
Whether you grow from seed or buy plants you'll need to know what tomato will do well for you. If your garden space is limited then look for a tomato that is listed as "determinate". This means the plant will stop growing, or at least slow way down, when the tomatoes have set. The tomatoes will ripen at the same time, and the growing season is short, but the plants won't sprawl or crowd the other plants.

If you buy a variety listed as "indeterminate" it's a good idea to stake the tomatoes. Use a sturdy stake made of wood, heavy plastic or a metal pipe. It should be anywhere from 4-8 foot long, pounded into the ground next to the plant, about 4-5 inches from the stem. I use a rubber mallet and pound the stakes into the ground at least a foot because the tomato plants becomes very heavy later in the season. As the plants grow they will have to be tied to the stake with cloth, string or plastic.


Pruning is one way to keep tomato plants under control. The plant will continue to branch out from the main stem, and those stems will branch out as well. It won't hurt the plant to trim off the side stems that form to keep the plant from sprawling too far.

Herbs in the Garden
Herbs are perfect for a kitchen garden IF kept under control. Only plant what you know you will use in your cooking if you are concerned with space. If the herbs aren't harvested they will spread. Chives, oregano, thyme and sage are perennial herbs that will survive tough winters. If you are in a warmer climate you'll be able to grow rosemary and tarragon as well. Harvest the herbs as needed, but try to harvest the entire plant by cutting back about halfway at least twice during the gardening season. The herbs can be allowed to bloom if you wish, but always cut the spent flowers off before they go to seed. Chives blooms are peppery and delicious in salads or vinegar.

I don't recommend growing lemon balm or any of the mints in a small area unless they can be grown in a pot that is buried to prevent spreading, or used as a container plant near the garden. They will spread by runners and seed easily and very quickly.

The Garden Soil
I use compost, and organic fertilizer in my raised bed. Each spring I work the soil around the perennial herbs where the vegetables and annuals will be planted. I add compost and a dry, organic fertilizer. After planting I mulch with a combination of compost, grass clipping and straw.

Watering The Garden
I've watered with sprinklers, hose nozzles, watering cans and soaker hoses in all shapes and sizes. I found out that for the raised bed with both herbs and vegetables the soaker hose works best. An inexpensive, standard hose that I paid less than ten dollars for at the home improvement store worked great. I placed it down closest to the vegetables since they need more water than the herbs. How much I watered depended on the rain and the heat. In the hottest part of the summer I ran it for a couple hours each day unless it rained. I always watered before noon.

On OFL we have an article on growing and using calendula:

http://oldfashionedliving.com/calendula.html

~Brenda

The Kitchen Garden: What to Grow?

Once you've decided on a location and size for your kitchen garden it's time to decide what you will grow. I've had raised beds, traditional plots and small herb gardens. My advice is to start small and enlarge the area or add more beds each season if you need more room.

I currently grow herbs and vegetables in a 4 foot by 8 foot raised bed with a height of about 12 inches. We used untreated pine, which will eventually rot and have to be replaced one day, but I didn't want to use anything that had been treated with chemicals. Below is what I've found works best in a raised bed the size we built. This may give you ideas for your own kitchen garden.

Thyme: in a corner

Oregano: in another corner

Chives: along the front spaced at least 18 inches apart

Sage: in the back left hand corner

Cucumbers & Green beans

Both of these are grown in front of a piece of sturdy metal fencing in the middle back of the bed (see picture below) to grow up instead of spreading out.

Tomatoes: 2 to 3 plants grown in the back opposite the cucumbers and beans. It's important to stake the tomatoes to keep them from sprawling and taking up too much room.

This leaves the center of the raised bed open, plus the space between the chives. I alternate the following herbs and vegetables:

Peppers

Dill

Basil

Nasturtium (with the chives)

Onions

Greens

Radishes

I add color to the garden with nasturtiums, which are pretty and edible. Calendula is another flower that doubles as an herb. Both can be used in salads, garnish or herbal vinegar.

When looking for vegetables, herbs or flowers for smaller kitchen gardens try to choose varieties that are described as "space saving", "dwarf" or "compact".

Starting with the basics will give you a chance to get a feel for how much work and time the garden will involve. Keep track of what grows well and what tastes the best. This will help you decide how much to expand next year.

On OFL we have an article on growing and cooking with chives:

http://oldfashionedliving.com/chives.html

~Brenda

The Kitchen Garden: Historical Examples

I thought this week I would focus on the kitchen garden, which can be as simple as potted herbs and vegetables outside the kitchen door or on a patio to a potager, which is a French term for an ornamental vegetable or kitchen garden. Today I want to focus on the examples of historical kitchen gardens.

Martha Washington helped was known for walking among the rows of her kitchen garden to check the progress of the plants and trees. She was responsible for the planning and care of the garden. On the website for George Washington's Mount Vernon Estate there is a description of the restored kitchen garden:

"Much of the produce that appeared on the Washingtons' table was raised in this brick-walled, sunny spot located directly behind the stables and their unfailing supply of manure. Today rows of asparagus, beets, beans, spinach, and peas grow in beds edged with low-growing herbs. Apple and pear trees pruned to form waist-high, stout fences line the paths between beds of artichokes, onions, and lettuce. The garden is a wonderful example of a formal English kitchen garden."

Reading this description you can picture the garden as beautiful while being functional. The Read House in Delaware has a kitchen garden that was built in the late 1800's. It's been restored and is described as:

"...kitchen garden with alees of pear trees and trellised grapes set by formal boxwood hedges."

The boxwood would be solely ornamental but act as a edging to the garden. Many kitchen gardens are edged by herbs, which would be pretty, fragrant and useful. Obviously the addition of grapes and fruit trees would call for a much larger kitchen garden.

These two gardens belonged to people who were well off, and had staff to assist them with their gardens, and budgets that would allow for trees and perennials to edge their potagers. Some situations called for much small kitchen gardens. I found it interesting that long ago pubs and taverns often had their own kitchen gardens to grow herbs and vegetables too.

During summer vacations my family and I have often stopped by forts such as Colonial Michilimackinac in Michigan, which is a restored fort and trading village. There was usually a large garden, but there were also small gardens behind some of the residents' homes. They were small, fenced in, and often included sunflowers, herbs and vegetables. The wife of an officer probably tended the small garden with limited access to seeds or plants.

What type of kitchen garden could you grow? As yourself the following questions:

1. How much room do I have for a garden?
2. What tools would I need?
3. What is my budget?
4. What would I like to grow?
5. If I leave on vacation could someone water the garden?
6. Would I care for the garden alone or have help?

These are the basic questions to ask yourself. Once you've answered these then you an go on to the actual details. In the next blog post I'll go into more on choosing what to grow.

On OFL we have a nice article on a kitchen garden:
http://oldfashionedliving.com/kitchengarden.html

October Garden Tips & Chores

Autumn is in full swing, which means it's time to take advantage of the lovely days to take care of the lawn and garden.

Lawns, shrubs and perennials still need about an inch of rain a week. Rain gauges can be bought very cheaply. I found one for a dollar, but you can also make your own to measure the rain in your area. We've been getting enough rain where I am located, but I know some of you may be in areas where you aren't, so be sure to water if you receive less than an inch.

It's that time of year to dig up summer bulbs such as gladioli, dahlias, tuberous begonias, caladiums and cannas. I have an article on OFL with more information on storage: http://oldfashionedliving.com/corms.html

I've gotten lucky with glads for two years now and they've come back on their own. They are in a bed with mulch but no extra protection. I'm in Zone 5 so this has been a cool surprise. It doesn't hurt to give it a try if you don't have time to dig them up this year.

Garlic can be planted this month before the ground freezes. Plant it in full sun where the soil has been worked up deeply and it's fertile but not soggy. Organic matter such as leaf mold will give the garlic an extra boost. Separate the cloves from a head of garlic, then plant them 3 inches deep and 5-6 inches apart. The cloves should be planted with the pointed tips up. Cover and gently pat the soil over the cloves.

If time allows, fall is a great time to prepare garden and flower beds for next year. Remove annuals and vegetables from the beds as they finish blooming or harvesting is finished. Spread compost over the top of beds, even if it hasn't broken down all the way. This will help fertilize the bed over the winter.

Weeds can quickly take over especially with a few good rains, and warm temperatures. Take advantage of the cool fall days to pull weeds that have gotten out of control. This will cut back on the weeding that needs to be done in the spring and early summer.

October is one of my favorite months because of the colors, the fresh cool air, the fall blooms and the fragrance of autumn. I hope you're enjoying your fall days.

~Brenda

Late Summer & Fall Garden Tips

The summer is slowly coming to an end and it's time to start making a list of the garden and landscape chores that will need to be done before cold weather. Today I have a few chores that you may need to do too.

Herbaceous peonies should be cut back to soil level, and the ground under and around the plant should be kept free of debris. Moving or dividing peonies can also be done this time of year. Add compost when replanting, water well, and mulch.

Hydrangeas can be planted this time of year as well. Choose a fertile, fairly moist, but not wet, location in partial shade if possible. If the location is in full sun the soil should be on the moist side. They don't do well in dry soil and full sun unless they can be watered on a regular basis. Hydrangeas won't bloom as well their best in a full shade, woodland environment either. Most hydrangeas can be pruned by 1/3 during the winter months when the plant has lost it's leaves. This makes it easier to prune evenly.

Fall is a good time to divide or transplant perennial plants such as hosta, yarrow, day lily, Lily of the Valley, bleeding hearts, and other plants that bloomed in the spring or early summer. One rule of thumb is to transplant after the perennial has bloomed, not during or before blooming. Water well for the first two weeks after transplanting, especially if there isn't sufficient rain. Mulch can add an extra protection to newly transplanted perennials if it's 3-5 inches thick, and removed in early spring.

I found this great tip from Clemson University Extension Office:
Blossom end rot - check your late tomatoes for blossom end rot on the fruit as it begins to form. This is usually an indication of a calcium deficiency. Place a handful of gypsum (land plaster) in the soil beside the tomato at planting (or later) to prevent this. Foliar sprays such as blossom end rot spray will also help alleviate the problem. Nothing will "heal" the fruit with rot on it, so remove and discard them.

One last chore that I need to do soon myself, is dividing and moving bearded iris. I have two tall varieties, and one cream colored dwarf iris. I love how easy they are to grow, but I spaced mine too close together and I need to thin and divide the rhizomes. The perfect time to do this is after a hard rain. Dig up the iris, cut off the foliage to 5-6 inches above the root/rhizome and set them to dry for a day or two before replanting.

On OFL I have more tips on dividing iris and looking for insect damage:http://oldfashionedliving.com/iris.html

July Garden Tips: Midsummer Heat

July is considered midsummer, which means a lot of dry hot days and I can summarize what you need to do this month in four simple words:

1. Weed
2. Deadhead
3. Mulch
4. Water

Keeping ahead of the weeds, especially if you grow organically, is so important this time of year. One week can go by and if you haven't weeded and mulched the weeds can take over a garden or a flowerbed. The mulch really does help, but it's important to weed, then mulch. Once you do this, the weeding chores will be much easier. I've been weeding the day after it rains, and this has really helped a lot.

Deadheading is important for annuals and perennials. Some perennials may be done blooming, but deadheading still keeps the plant looking nice and allows more energy to go into developing next year's blooms. If it's a plant that does keep blooming then removing the dead blooms will help it continue to bloom. Some plants may need to be trimmed down to keep a neat appearance. A lot of herbs need this, which is why harvesting is important even if you can't use what you clip off. Either give them away or bundle into clumps and dry in a shed or garage. Lemon balm, oregano, sage, lavender, chives, mints, rosemary, and other perennial herbs are ones that need this done to keep looking nice for the entire summer.

Annuals need to be deadheaded to keep looking good. A few will do okay without it, but some will stop blooming such as snapdragons, some petunias, Cape daisies (Osteospermum)and pansies are examples. It never hurts to snip off old blooms, and usually it will benefit the plant. If the plants look good, and they are blooming well, then don't worry about it.

Watering this time of year can be tricky. Try to water in the morning before it's too hot. If you water in the hottest part of the day it will dry too quickly. If you water at night, it can cause mildew or other problems with some plants. The slugs also tend to do more damage if the plants and foliage are damp at night. Soaker hoses are one of the best ways to water when you can use them. Turn them on for a couple hours in the morning to soak things down well, and they'll be okay.

Watch plants on windy, hot days. They will dry out VERY quickly, especially container plants. You may need to water more on these days.

July can be a chore heavy month, but your landscape and garden will look better and produce more if you watch the watering, deadheading, mulching and weeding this month.

It's Strawberry Season! On OFL we have tips and recipes:
http://oldfashionedliving.com/strawberry.html

~Brenda

In the Garden: June Tips

June is the time to get serious about your garden and landscape if you haven't already. A lot is going on, and if you get a head start on your planting, weeding and pruning you'll be glad you did later in the summer.

-Shrubs and bushes that flower in the spring can be pruned after they bloom. lilacs, flowering almond, spirea, viburnum, and forsythia are some that may need pruning.

-Chrysanthemum buds should be pinched off until July. The blooms will be later in the fall that way when you'll appreciate the autumn colors.

-Remove the stems and leaves from your spring bulbs such as tulips and daffodils only when they wilted and turned yellow and/or brown. Before this point they are storing up energy from the sun for next year's blooms.

-After a good spring rain is the perfect time to weed. It's SO much easier, and even those long rooted weeds will come out whole when pulled after a rain.

-Once ALL frost has passed it's time to plant dahlias and gladiolas. Don't wait too long because they will need the growing time to give you a good set of blooms.

-Irises can multiply rapidly, and the crowding will hinder their growth. After they bloom they can be carefully dug up, divided and replanted. Cut the old bloom off but leave the foliage if it's still green.

-As your peonies bloom and the flowers fade, cut off them off and throw in the compost pile or discard. They look unsightly, but also there is a chance with the old blooms bunched together as they drop could cause mildew. Clipping off the old blooms keeps the plant neater looking and healthier.

Now is the perfect time to plant sunflower seeds and I have an article with tips on OFL: http://oldfashionedliving.com/sunflowers.html

~Brenda

More Victory Garden Wisdom

Companion crops are a great way to save space and have more variety in your garden. The Victory Garden Manual from 1943 shares some tips on this along with some other great advice.

A mixture of radishes with the seeds of slow-germinating vegetables, such as parsnips, parsley, and carrots, is an excellent way to get enough yearly radishes to supply the average family without sowing a special row. Be sure to mix in very few radish seeds, not more than 5 or 10 per cent. The radishes will germinate and mature before the slower companions have begun to grow well.

A short season crop such as radishes or spinach can be sown between parsnips and chard to save space.

Here are a variety of tips I thought were interesting and helpful:

Carrots need not be thinned until they have reached an edible stage. When they are about a thick as a pencil they can be pulled and thinned at the same time.

Beets always grow in clusters because a beet seed is really many seeds together and they can be thinned when the young roots have just begun to thicken. Be sure to thin them or they will suffer from crowding.

Lettuce can be used from the time a leaf is 2 inches wide but growth is much faster if thinned earlier.

Reading through this helpful book I enjoyed these frugal ideas, which I summarized in my own words.

-If you don't have a seed spreader simply poke holes in the bottom of a coffee can and shake to spread seeds.

-Use a metal file to sharpen hoes and other garden tools and they will work much better than when they are dull. They should also be washed off and rubbed with an oily rag.

-Dried grass clippings can be used as mulch. After mowing, gather up clippings and allow them to dry before using around plants to avoid mold or mildew.

-Disease can be prevented at least most of the time by providing sunshine, plenty of air circulation and a clean garden. Never leave debris of any type (such as pulled weeds) in the garden. Keep it well maintained and watered on a regular basis. Always remove any plants or leaves that look like they could be diseased.

On OFL we have a nice article on growing peas this spring:

http://oldfashionedliving.com/The-Spring-Garden:-Growing-Peas.html

~Brenda

Tips from a Victory Garden

I've been reading my copy of Victory Garden Manual by James H. Burdett, published in 1943. It's a small, plain hardcover book filled with practical garden information. We can learn much from Victory Gardens because the times forced everyone to be as thrifty and practical as possible. It wasn't a matter of being "green" or taking up gardening as a hobby. For some families, it was a matter of survival. When we look at a home garden in this way it helps us to think of it in terms of providing food, and not something that requires the newest garden gadgets or the fanciest seeds.

The first tips revolve around picking a location for your garden. Here is a summary:

1. Convenience to the kitchen door

2. Will work well with the ornamentals you already have in place

3. 6 hours of full sun

4. Well drained and level

5. Free of tree roots and shrubs

I love the author's attitude on perfection in the garden:

If we were all perfectionists, there would be few gardens. I have made fine vegetable gardens for many years in soil which the experts assured me was not suited to vegetables. If your property does not provide a plot which seems right in all respects, so not give up the idea of the garden. Pick out the most suitable space and take steps to correct its deficiencies.

This goes along with my rant about perfect gardeners on television and in magazines wearing white shorts or pants, a pretty blouse, and lovely shoes when they garden. Proper gardening requires elbow grease and clothing that already has stains...something you won't worry about getting dirty while you are working.

The garden space should also be rather open, surrounded by a small to medium fence if you wish, but the air should be able to circulate around the garden. The book shows a garden that is 75 by 150 foot for a family of five. It's divided into four sections with paths between each, and the rows are neat and straight. However, the author reduced his own garden for a family of four to 24 by 50 foot using a picket fence on three sides to support tomatoes and beans. He also mentions having a surplus for family and friends, so this size garden was plenty for his family, yet smaller in space. Cucumbers can also be trained up a fence or trellis to save space.

My advice is to plan carefully, being honest with yourself about how much work you and your family will be able to put into the garden. The large garden mentioned for a family of five will need the entire family to put in daily garden work to really keep it maintained properly. It also was set up to grow 25 types of vegetables. It is most likely that your family may not need all 25 as listed:

lettuce

radishes

onions

carrots

beets

turnips

parsnips

potatoes

brussels sprouts

cabbage

tomatoes

spinach

okra

peppers

broccoli

kohlrabi

cucumbers

cantaloupes

watermelon

eggplant

peas

string beans

lima beans

corn

asparagus

Look over this list and cross out what your family wouldn't make use of, then study the vegetables that are left and determine which ones would be eaten in a greater variety. My family, for instance, would eat many more cucumbers, tomatoes and peppers then they would beans or peas. Once you figure this out, you can plan your garden specifically for your family.

I'll share more from the Victory Garden next week.

On OFL learn how to grow and use Lovage in your cooking:

http://oldfashionedliving.com/lovage.html

~Brenda

Gardening Time: Pepper Tips

I know most of us have been getting garden catalogs in the mail since December, but it's finally time to start seeds indoors. A general guide for vegetables and flowers is the following:

Zones 9, 10, 8, 7, and 6: Start seeds indoors February/March

Zones 5, 4, 3, 2 and 1: Start seeds indoors in middle or end of March.

Peppers are a little bit challenging to grow, but with seeds you'll have access to a much bigger selection of hot and mild varieties. I've grown both types and they have a couple of things in common: grown them in full sun in a fertile, rich soil that is never soggy. Pepper plants don't like wet feet, but at the same time don't allow the soil to go completely dry.

It's best to start pepper seeds inside about 8 weeks before the last frost in your area. The thing to remember about pepper seeds and plants is they like it toasty. If you live in a hot climate you can start seeds outdoors when the soil is about 65 degrees F., but the rest of us need to start seeds indoors or buy plants. Growing from seeds offers a huge selection of sweet and hot peppers compared to the plants that are usually available at nurseries, as I mentioned.

To start pepper seeds indoors, the temperature of the potting soil needs to be between 75-80 degrees F. A covered seed starting container works great--it acts like a mini greenhouse. Clear plastic containers from baked goods or salads can be used too. Seeds should germinate/sprout in about 10-15 days depending on the variety. Keep the container in a warm location that is free of drafts to get the best results.

Once the seeds germinate, then they will need bright light. Use fluorescent lights 14 to 16 hours a day, positioned a few inches above the seedlings, raising it as they grow taller. A sunny window will work too if it's in full sun. If a window is used, the container will need to be turned daily so the seedlings don't bend one way towards the light. Don't transplant the pepper plants outside until all frost has passed and the soil has warmed up to at least 60 degrees. Always "harden" the seedlings before putting them into the garden, by moving the seedlings outside for a little bit each day when it warms up. When you are sure the cold nights are done, then plant them in the garden, and water well.

On OFL we also have an article I wrote on harvesting peppers that includes recipes: http://oldfashionedliving.com/bellpeppers.html

~Brenda

October Garden Tips

I cannot endure to waste anything as precious as autumn sunshine by staying in the house. So I spend almost all the daylight hours in the open air. ~Nathaniel Hawthorne

We are almost to October believe it or not. Autumn officially arrived last week, though in California I hear it feels like the middle of summer with the heat wave they are going through right now. Here in Michigan we are back to cool mornings and nights down into the 40's already. It's time to start preparing for cold weather while the days are cool and sunny.

Once the frost starts damaging annuals, or they simply aren't looking nice any longer, pull up the plants and put them in the compost pile IF they are healthy and without mildew or other disease. There are some exceptions: if you want the plant to reseed where you have it now, then leave on the seed heads and allow them to dry and scatter. I do this with morning glories, calendula and nasturtiums. Some annuals have seeds that birds enjoy and those can be left too.

Do clean up any plants, leaves, fruit, vegetables or debris that looks diseased. Do not compost, but bag it up and dispose or burn if you are allowed to do so where you live. Some diseases and pests can survive the winter if left on the ground throughout the winter.

If you have small ponds or water features with plants, you can trim the leaves off once they turn yellow. It's better to remove fallen tree leaves from the water as they gather there instead of waiting until spring. These can be composted also.

Reminder: I know I've nagged about this, but remember to pull up your nonhardy bulbs once the foliage has died back or after a light frost. This includes: tuberous begonias, caladiums, cannas, dahlias, gladioli, and tuberoses. Gently wipe away the dirt with a rag and store them in peat, sawdust or even shredded newspaper in a dry cool area that doesn't get colder than about 60 degrees throughout the winter.

Lastly, clean your tools before winter after you've finished your fall chores. Wash them with soapy, hot water and dry off with a rag. Sharpen any that need it and rub wood handles with mineral oil before putting them away.

Enjoy these lovely fall days. ~Brenda

Garden Tips for September

A late summer garden has a tranquility found no other time of the year. ~William Longgood

It's just about time to plant spring bulbs. Remember, if the bulb is a smaller type of bloom such as crocus, snowdrops or any miniature variety of daffodil, tulip etc. you'll want to plant them in groups, fairly close together to really get the most from them.

Walk around your property and make decisions on if and where you want any new flower, vegetable or herb beds. Work up the area, remove rocks, and add any organic material now, so it has fall and winter to start working in the soil. You will appreciate this SO much in the spring when you have a fertile area for planting.

Don't forget to rake up crabapples that have fallen. They can be used for apple butter, cider, and jelly. If all else fails, compost them.

If you have tomato plants, start watching the weather forecast for early frost warnings. Cover the plants with a sheet or plastic on the nights it may frost. Once we start getting heavy frost, pull up the plants and hang them in the basement to finish ripening or use the green tomatoes in recipes like we have on OFL.

September and October are perfect in cold climates for planting evergreens such as pine, spruce, hemlock or yew. Watch for deals at nurseries, and plant as soon as you purchase them. Don't go deeper than an inch or two lower than they were planted in the container. Water heavily, and give them a mulch of chopped leaves. If deer are a problem for you in the winter, be sure to surround the new evergreens with chicken wire or other fencing for the winter.

On OFL we have recipes for using green tomatoes in recipes here.

~Brenda

Tips on Growing Dahlias

Dahlias are a beautiful flower and an example of a tuber, which is a long root that is planted in the spring. Dahlias aren't hardy for those of us in cold climates. The tubers must be dug up each year and stored if they are to be saved from year to year. Many gardeners do this, and increase their dahlia stock each year. I have some basic tips today for growing this old fashioned flower.

Dahlia tubers should be planted after all frost has passed. The soil needs to be worked and compost or other organic matter added in so it's loose and fertile. Some gardeners add bone meal before planting. A 1/2 cup or so for each tuber works well. Work it into the soil before planting. Dahlias should be planted in full sun, and kept watered but never soggy. You'll also need to keep the bed weed free because they are heavy feeders which means they don't share well. Raised beds work very well for Dahlias.

Tubers such as dahlias are planted by laying the tuber on it's side with "the eye" facing up. This is where the stem will shoot up from. You should be able to see this be examining the tuber root. A depth of 6 inches is usually recommended. Don't pack the soil on top too firmly, but fill it back in gently and water.

Unless you are planting dwarf Dahlias, they most likely will need support, especially the larger varieties. Plan ahead by putting in supports as you plant. Dahlias also work well planted in containers. They are beautiful old fashioned flowers that come in many sizes and colors. I've grown dwarf dahlias in porch boxes with great success. Purchase them online or at local garden centers. I often buy the dwarf dahlias as bedding plants in early summer.

On OFL we have tips on growing zinnias which are similar to Dahlias but they are very easy to grow from seed.

Garden Tips: Sowing Tiny Seeds

When the time is ripe for certain things, these things appear in different places in the manner of violets coming to light in the early spring. ~Farkas Bolyai

Today I have some tips on sowing very tiny seeds.

For planting tiny seeds in small peat pots keep a small glass of water and a pencil next to your work area. Simply dampen the end of the pencil then use it to pick up the seed and deposit it in it's pot. This is much better than picking up several on your finger:)

Washing out tiny seeds: Buy the cheapest tissues you can find and separate a couple of the tissues into 2 pieces (they are usually 2 ply). Prepare your container (remember, the salad or deli containers with a clear top work well after washing) by placing in seed starting mix. Carefully lay down one layer of tissue, then place your seeds down as if it was the top of the dirt. Now place the second tissue on top of the seeds, then water. The seeds will stay in place each time you water and there is
no reason to remove the tissue!

Sowing tiny seeds outside: Place your seeds and 3-4 tbsp. of cornmeal into a paper lunch sack. Shake well and sprinkle the mixture over your prepared area. Water carefully with a hose attachment that waters just a little heavier than mist until all is moistened. This helps space the tiny seeds so they don't clump together.

Covering seeds: It's always important to note how deep seeds are suppose to be planted. Some barely need covering. Pick up a strainer at a yard sale or thrift store and keep it handy. When you need a very light covering throw a handful of dirt in the strainer and shake over the seeds.

We have tips for growing Bleeding Hearts on OFL:
http://www.oldfashionedliving.com/bleedingheart.html